Rolly's EX
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication

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EX Front Axle
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication


CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

photoalbum\rolly\axle\4.5 BC Stanley Front hub as machined.jpg
photoalbum\rolly\axle\axle assembly-a.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\axle end.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Left Spindle.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Perch pole and spring casting.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Perch rod end.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Spindle Pin and Parts.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Stanley Hub Cap.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\Tie rod ends & small parts.jpg      
photoalbum\rolly\axle\U bolt.jpg      


EX Rear Axle
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication


The rear end as built was modified slightly from the original. I have included the drawing as was original, and as modified.

The axle ends were modified and built with five inch tapered keyed ends, and the drums were made to accept them. The bearing are deep grooved sealed ball bearings and are arranged so when the wheel is installed, tension and preload is applied to both the inner and outer bearing. No side thrust from the wheel is against the planetary gears. The gears used are original.

The inner brake band cleaves and bolt was modified per the drawing so as to facilitate the ease of adjustment. The outer brakes originated in 1907 and I modified them by bonding brake lining material to the bronze shoes. All castings are 85-55-06 ductile, the axle tube is 3/16 - 4130 and the axles are 4140. The front axle is the same except for the spindle castings; are A-148 structural steel 110,000 Tensile and 90,000 Yield and have tapered rollers for bearings.



CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\4.5 BC Stanley rear hub with Drum.jpg          
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\4.5 BC Stanley rear modified drum.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Attachment cleave.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Attachment cleaves.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake acturator.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake assamebly.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake band.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake bands modified .JPG
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake cam actuator rod.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake cam-3.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake parts.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Brake parts-a.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Center yoke.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\cross brace casting.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified axle end.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified brake band attachment bolt.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Modified Brake cleave as built.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Outside brake shoe.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle assamble-a.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle end Hub.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle yoke spacers.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle parts.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear axle yoke spacers.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Rear Perch pole and spring casting pattern.jpg
  photoalbum\rolly\r-axle\Truss Rod.jpg



Running Gear
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Assembly of the front and rear end together with the perch rods is quite straightforward.

Caution needs to be taken to keep the rear end from bowing. Also keeping the wheels square to each other.

The tie rods needed some forging to copy the original. The rods are 3/8-OD with 9/16 hex stock slipped over the rod and silver brazed in place. The ends of the rods are then forged in a die to a larger diameter to ˝ inch to enable them to be threaded to 7/16-20

The perch rods I used are hickory as I was lead to believe by others was as the original. Other builder of reproduction Stanley’s are using 4130 steel aircraft tubing.

The Yellow paint used was computer matched to old paint on original borrowed drums, it was wet sanded to remove dirt and oxidation. It matched up to John Deere Yellow TY25641. John Deere has six different shades of yellow paint. Other brands also had a match.

The wood wheels are original Model EX wheels and needed a lot of epoxy and finish work. New wheels are still available.



CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

  photoalbum\rolly\running gear\EX running gear.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\running gear\Perch rod cross brace bracket.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\running gear\perch rod cross ties.jpg



Springs, U-Bolts & Hardware
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This was a main concern of mine. From all the information I could gather the springs should be 1-3/8 inch’s wide. I was unable to locate any manufacture of springs of this size. 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 were available. I decided on going with the 1-1/4 springs and I would add an extra leaf.

The Stanley springs are unique in the shape from what is on the market. Each leaf would have to be re-cut and re-arched. The main spring ends would also have to be reworked to give it the shape of the Stanley end. To do this a thick washer was obtained from the spring supplier with the square hole already punched. These washers had to be welded to each side on both ends and added weld material and grinding was needed to get the desired shape.

I ordered six springs so as to have four extra long leafs and some spare leafs if I mess some up in reworking them.

Each leaf had tapered ends both in width and thickness and had to have about three inches cut of both ends and reshaped to a round radius and tapered in thickness.

Each leaf also had to be re-arched; this was done cold by hand using a template.

About six inch in from one end a tab was welded on the underside of each leaf and ground to a little knife edge protruding down. A corresponding groove was ground into the leaf directly under it. This keeps the leaf from moving off to one side. The early cars did not have the tabs on the sides of each leaf.

I still need to make new bolts with a larger radius on each end to match the original.

This work took a little over a month to complete.  I would not want to do it again.


CAD Drwaings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

  photoalbum\rolly\Springs-hardware\Front spring frame support.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\Springs-hardware\Rear fender bracket from frabricated part.jpg




The EX Body
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication


I had the opportunity to purchases the body of the EX from Louis Biondi now deceased.

He and his brother had built quite a few different models Stanley bodies from original bodies he had acquired. Most of these bodies were built over thirty years ago and were finished into complete running cars and are still in the family collection.

 The original EX body is still in a storage trailer at the family estate, two far gone to restore into a finished car. I had the opportunity to go over it in detail and do several drawings and was allowed to bring the floorboard with the foot rest home for a more detailed copy for pattern work of the footrest. My EX body is as good and accurate copy as could be duplicated.

 Photo of the body as received was the start of a four-year project, and learning experience of Stanley cars in general and a very detailed study of the model EX.

 The body required replacement of some wood do to dry rot but in general was in very good condition. I had to build the base of the front seat. The original would have been a single seat. I built it as a two-cushion seat as the left hand side is the access to the water tank. I also had to build the entire back seat and all the hardware for the railing. I built most of all the metal parts and hardware for the car; we will get into those later.




CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

photoalbum\rolly\body\Body side view.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Body side with rear door.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\buy pass bracket.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Cross member under Dash.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Dash layout-05-07.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\body\door catch.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\door latch.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Emg brake latch bar.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Emg brake bar-1.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\EX Frame flooring.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\EX Frame only.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\body\Fire wall side.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Hood latch -2.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear door.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear latch.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear seat hardware.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Rear seat hardware-2.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\body\Running board.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\body\Water glass fitting.jpg




all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication


The boiler is quite straightforward, designed with the ASME code in mind. The shell is rated 2500 PSI busting pressure well above the code’s 3.5 times working pressure. The heads are SA-516 grade 70 and are 3/8 inch thick per the minimum allowed for boilers less then 42 inches in diameter. The welding is PW-16.1 (a)

The welded assembly was stress relived after welding. After tubing it hydro at 1000 PSI for well over eight hours.

The burner I cast in ductile iron and drilled it with 4000 holes. The venturi tubes are oversize from the original of 1-1/4 to 1-1/2.  The vaporizer and pilot, burner, nozzle are as the original and the fuel is as original gasoline.

The water level indicator is of my own design and was incorporated into a Stanley type gauge. Modern but very reliable and accurate. The Stanley EX originally used the bucket type level indicator.

The operation of this boiler is manual for feed water, except for the steam pressure regulator that turns the burner fuel on and off.



CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\10 HP Throttle.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\18 inch boiler Drill sheet-t.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Boiler support.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Boiler tie down clamp.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Burner pan layout.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Burner tip.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Drill pattern.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\super heater & burner pan.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\super heater.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Water level gauge-2.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\boiler-burner\Water level Pressure vessel.jpg




The Hood
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication

I was really trying to have some one make this for me but after many frustrating attempts I finely bit the bullet and took a stab at it.  I had spent many hours checking all the EX cars I came across and not one hood had the same dimensions. All varied as much as a half-inch, to an inch. I did my own drawings to fit my car and used all the old photos to acquire original details.

I ran into Daryl Kendall at the Eastern Steam car tour and he agreed to punch me out the louvered panels that could be welded into the sheet metal. I saw him do this once several years earlier. I had to buy a bead roller to make the joint on the sloped section of the hood. If I could make the brass sections well enough I knew I could make the rest.

I had made and laid out cones before and the front of the hood was only half a cone.

I set up and cut and rolled the brass, it looked good, I knew I was half way there. I bought a sheet of cold rolled sheet steel and went to town on the rest of the panels.

About that time the UPS truck delivered Daryl panels. I set up and machined the trim for around the lower edge and ordered the brass angle stock for the trim around the back.


CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

photoalbum\rolly\hood\Angle dimensions.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\hood\Hood profile.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\hood\Stanley Louvers.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\hood\Panel layout .jpg

photoalbum\rolly\hood\Template .jpg





 Pumps, Tanks & Small Parts
all content Copyright 2010 -  permission is required for republication



 I am making this the last topic, I think there is enough posted to give anyone a   very good over-view of what it takes to build a car, or start this type of project.



CAD Drawings in JPEG

Click Photos to Enlarge

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\1906 -07 pumps with 1908 drive.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\axle jacking block-1.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\axle jacking block-2.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Brak arm-a.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\die for clamp-a.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\engine blow down valve.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Engine driven water Pump 1909 Machineing Dr.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\engine hanger strap.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Exhaust Duct.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Fuel Pump bottom fed.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Fuel System EX.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Hand operated Pump .jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\High Pressure Valves.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Lace Handle.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\low water alarm.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Main steam elebow-1.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Off set link.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\pump drive bearing.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Pump drive with no Hookup.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Pump Layout.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Quadrant pin.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Reverse Hook up Pedal.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Reversing pedal.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Siphon and pickup head .JPG


photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Throttle quadrant .jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Throttle quadrant Handle .jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Through Dash Valves.jpg

photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\Through Dash Valves-M dwg.jpg


photoalbum\rolly\pumps,tanks,parts\water tank fill cap.jpg


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